Kawagoshi Ruins, Shimada City – Walking Through One of the Toughest Spots on the Edo Period Tōkaidō Road

Kawagoshi – Human-powered River Crossing in the Edo Period

During the Edo period, the Ōi River was off-limits to bridges or ferries, due to both military strategy and technical limitations. Travelers had no choice but to hire specialists known as Kawagoshi-ninsoku—laborers who carried people and goods across the river entirely by human power. This unique crossing method was called kawagoshi(River Crossing).This river-crossing system remained in place for more than 170 years.

A famous folk song from the period goes:

Hakone Hachiri wa uma demo kosu ga, kosu ni kosaren Ōigawa
“Even a horse can cross about 32km(about 19 miles) of Hakone, but the Ōi River cannot be crossed so easily.”

This verse, sung by packhorse drivers (mago), shows how the Ōi River was considered as formidable a barrier as Hakone’s steep passes, earning its reputation as a “raging river.”

Today, the Kawagoshi Ruins in Shimada City are Japan’s only open-air museum dedicated to this tradition, preserving and reconstructing Edo-period facilities such as porter lodgings, meeting houses, and the River Office along the old Tōkaidō Road. The adjacent Shimada City Museum also features exhibits on the river-crossing system.

Highlights

Sanbanyado

• Kawakaisho (River Office) – River officials measured depth and flow, set fees, sold river tickets, and managed operations. Built in 1856, it is the only surviving Edo-period building in the site.

• Banyado (Station) – Lodgings where Kawagoshi-ninsoku waited in groups of one to ten. The Third Banyado displays the rendai (a river-crossing palanquin). The Tenth Banyado exhibits materials on the laborers, while the Ninth Banyado hosts Shimada Kimono Sanpo, a kimono rental and dressing shop.

• Nakamanoyado (Leader’s Station ) – Meeting place for leaders and elders, now showcasing a large ukiyo-e of the crossing.

• Fudaba(Wage Exchange Station) – Tag office where laborers’ tokens were exchanged for wages; currently hosts weaving demonstrations.

• Segi-ato(Remains of a Siege) – Stone structures that acted as levees during floods.

• Nakamanoido (Friends’ Well) – Renovated in 1897, used until the 1950s.

• Ninawaya (Cargo Rope Shop) – Repacking and securing travelers’ luggage; now home to cosplay studio Hakurentei.

• Tachiaiyado Site (Remains of Tachiaiyado) – Rest stops for guides (tachiainin) escorting travelers.

• Soba Gen (Soba Restaurant) - A soba restaurant serving traditional 2:8 buckwheat noodles made with methods dating back to the Edo period.

• Tsubaki Coffee (Cafe) - A roadside coffee shop featuring house-roasted coffee.

Nearby Attractions

• Hōrai Bridge – The world’s longest wooden pedestrian bridge.Total length: 897.4 meters.

• Makinohara Plateau Tea Fields – Expansive green tea plantations.

• Old Tōkaidō stone-paved road – Preserved historic sections.

• Ōigawa Railway Steam Locomotives – Nostalgic train rides.

• KADODE OOIGAWA – Market and rest stop with Shizuoka tea and local specialties.

Conclusion

The Kawagoshi Ruins are more than preserved streets—they are a living record of Edo-period transport, economy, and community. With easy access from Shizuoka Airport and major highways, Shimada is an ideal base for a day trip combining history, scenery, and local flavors.